At first glance, it’s perhaps hard to believe that Cognac — a sleepy commune in southwestern France — has such a strong connection to hip-hop.
But its the small town's eponymous drink, and the historic brands that distill it, that has become wedded to the genre via some of its biggest names. From the early-nineties onwards, the most celebrated artisans behind the drink – specifically Hennessy, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier – were regularly being name-checked by artists like Jay-Z and Snoop Dogg as a symbol of "old money" luxury, and the influence continues to this day.
Looking to understand what all the fuss is about and add a bottle to your bar cart? Here to sort the Henny from the Remy, our wine and spirits experts have given us the lowdown.
Best cognac to buy in 2024
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Best coganc
Courvoisier XO Royal Cognac
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Runner-up cognac
Remy Martin XO Cognac
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Best organic cognac
Jean-Luc Pasquet L’Organic 07 Grande Champagne Cognac
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What is cognac?
Cognac is a specific type of brandy, made from distilled white wine. However, just as all champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is champagne; all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac... you follow?
Put simply, cognac is the crème de la crème of the brandy world. Made in a specific region, it must be aged in French oak for a minimum of two years, and undergo two distillations. The second distillation produces the ‘eau de vie’, which is then blended, aged, and released when the brand deems it ready.
What is the highest quality of cognac?
Unlike certain wine regions, which are based on appellations and vinification methods, cognac works on an easy-to-get-your-head-around ageing classification.
VS or ‘very special’ — means the youngest eau-de-vie has been aged for a minimum of two years.
VSOP or ‘Very Superior Old Pale’ — the youngest wine spirit is at least four years old.
XO ‘extra old’ — the youngest wine spirit is at least 10 years old.
XXO ‘extra extra old’ — the youngest wine spirit is at least 14 years old.
How to drink cognac
While food pairing is possible, generally speaking, cognac is best served as a digestif, or aperitif. While the old-school set would only serve it neat and at room temperature, we’re not ones to follow the rules.
So, ice it down or whack it in a cocktail. We’re not here to tell you what to do. If cocktails are on the cards, you can’t go wrong with the classics — whether that’s the Sidecar, Brandy Alexander or Sazerac. Hell, even a splash of tonic or ginger ale will do the job if short on time.
How we test cognac
Our panel — made up of accredited cognac experts and consumers — tested each bottle blind; first neat, then diluted with water to soften the alcohol and allow the core flavours to shine. They were looking for well-balanced examples offering a smooth mouthfeel and complexity. Younger cognacs should display a light and lively profile of fruit and floral notes, while aged examples should bring greater complexity, heavier oak and jammy dried fruit.
These are the bottles you’ll find on their bar cart.
This article was updated in May to reflect the latest prices and offers.
From its gold embossed emblem to the 30-facet glass stopper, Courvoisier XO Royal promises luxury from the off – and it delivers.
A harmonious blend of Fins Bois de Jarnac and Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie matured in French oak casks, it glows deep amber in the glass and opens with a delicate bouquet of hedgerow blossom, followed by notes of sweet cinnamon, toasted hazelnuts and honey on the palate.
Rich and full-bodied, it pairs perfectly with earthier, umami flavours, including summer truffles and wild mushroom risotto.
Alternatively, we have our eyes on this new limited-edition Courvoisier VSOP bottle for summer, created in collaboration with British Nigerian artist, Yinka Ilori. Returning as Courvoisier’s “Ambassador of Joy” for the second year, the vivid colour palette will pep up any bar cart.
70cl, 40%
If you’re a cognac convert, then Remy Martin needs no introduction. Even if you’re not, you’ll likely recognise the iconic bottle from the back bars of your favourite drinking dens.
This is the house’s signature cognac, and it's exceptionally smooth on the palate, with vanilla, caramel and candied orange peel to open, before building to a spicier, rye-like crescendo. A certified classic to sip on the rocks.
70cl, 40%
The OG XO cognac, this was first bottled way back in 1870 by Maurice Hennessy, and strictly reserved for family and friends. Leagues ahead of the VS when it comes to complexity, rich leather, tobacco, vanilla bean, dried figs and cooking spice aromas abound. If there’s a better sparring partner for a fireside cigar, we’re yet to find it.
70cl, 40%
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The François Voyer house has been crafting fine cognacs in the region’s ‘Golden Belt’ for over five generations, and this expertise shines through with every sip.
There’s an initial sweetness dominated by vanilla bean and butterscotch, which veers into a more savoury, tobacco-led territory, with a whiff of black pepper and wood to finish.
70cl, 40%
The veteran cognac experts had nothing but high praise for Pierre Ferrand’s Double Cask Réserve, commending its “deep, complex character.”
Sweeter notes of muscat raisins and cinnamon draw you in, but it’s the rich liquorice, cloves and dried fig on the palate that made it all too tempting to pour another glass.
70cl, 42.3%
Law dictates that XO cognacs must be aged for at least six years. This, however, has a casual 25 years under its belt, which creates a deliciously complex and citrus-forward cognac, backed up by light smoke, wood and a hint of vanilla.
It’s certainly more delicate than other cognacs on test; which, coupled with well-integrated alcohol and a smooth mouthfeel, make this our top pick for beginners.
50cl, 40%
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Created using the finest eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Fins Bois crus, this aromatic blend offers a fresh, floral nose, bursting with dried orange, vanilla, almond and nutmeg.
Of course, it’s extra old, so you can expect a leathery tobacco note too. Enjoy over a chunk of ice, we won’t tell anyone.
70cl, 44%
Master of Malt’s very own foray into the world of cognac is a super limited release (only 289 bottles were produced). If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on this 19-year-old, you can expect apricots and dates, coupled with a leathery, savoury finish that only develops over time.
70cl, 52.4%
Everyone knows the big names, but real cognac connoisseurs collect under-the-radar bottles from family producers like this.
While it’s not the oldest drop on this list, its organic credentials make it stand out from the crowd. As does its butterscotch influence, coupled with a decidedly mature sandalwood finish.
70cl, 40%
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We first discovered the Hine portfolio at Da Henrietta (part of the Experimental Group, the bar has a dedicated cognac menu, with over 70 bottles to choose from). We’re a little late to the game, as Hine actually dates back to 1791, but the focus remains the same — great cognac is, above all, a great wine.
It’s this limited-quantity-high-standard approach that results in punters coming back for more. Take this bold butterscotch liquid, that has an enticingly fresh lemon core, alongside warming cooking spices. Superb.
70cl, 40%
While we don’t wish to turn this into a Hine stan article, this collaboration with Harvey Nichols is too good not to mention. Like their rare VSOP above, there’s a distinctively refreshing lemon drop base, and a fresh, floral nose that challenges expected cognac characteristics.
70cl, 40%
If you like your cognac nuttier than a Snickers bar — we’re talking marzipan, blanched almonds and brazil nut — you’ll want to focus your search on those made with the Borderies cru, Cognac’s smallest region, and an area that has these attributes in spades. Less fruity and more saline, it’s really rather excellent.
70cl, 40%
Tested byCallum Black
Food and Drink Testing Manager
Callum is our Food and Drink Testing Manager and has been part of the world of professional catering for 10 years, from cheffing to food manufacturing. While working in manufacturing he specialised in bespoke product and menu development for several start-ups and well-known brands such as Wrap It Up! and HOP Vietnamese. He holds the WSET Level 2 in wine, a Level 3 in spirits and has a particular interest in agave spirits.
